Native Grass Lawn guide and information

Sowing guidelines


  • For best results try to ensure that the seed bed is weed free. This can be done by spraying out existing weeds some weeks before sowing to allow any new weed growth to be further treated. Native grasses are slow growers and effective weed control is highly desirable.
  • While the soil is under preparation, it is a good idea to sow a few seeds into a sterile seed raising mix to be kept moist until germination. This will allow for easier identification of lawn seedlings once the lawn is sown.
  • Before sowing, the soil surface should be loosened with either a rake or harrows to ensure adequate seed to soil contact. No fertiliser is necessary and don’t use any lawn starters. They tend to have high levels of phosphorus, which we want to avoid.
  • Spread the seed evenly over the prepared surface and rake it in, so it is lightly covered. Seed sown deeper than 15 mm may not germinate.
  • Successful germination requires adequate moisture for at least three weeks. Use the sown seed sample to help identify grass seedlings from weeds.
  • For best results maintain good weed control once the seeds have germinated. This can be done either by hand weeding or with the use of a broadleaf herbicide once the seedlings reach the five leaf stage.


How to repair your lawn:

  • Mow the lawn, raking out dead grass, moss and debris
  • Mix your grass seed with our Organic Soil Improver and scatter over bare areas. Create a criss-cross pattern by sowing half the seed from left to right and the rest from top to bottom.
  • You can either rake into the soil or sprinkle a thin layer of top soil to cover any exposed seeds.
  • Soak with a fine spray and keep soil moist for the next few weeks.
  • Any remaining mixture can be scattered over thin areas
  • Ideal weather condition can result in your grass starting to appear from 5 days.  In less favourable conditions allow 14-21 days.


Dealing with Weeds

Dealing with area that have been overrun with weeds takes a bit of work but there is definitely ways to do it.  One method is to select a backbone species of grass and use it exclusively for the first two years, then progressively introduce more species. It is important to pick a grass that  methods with high success rates of sowing are known and selective herbicide technology is available. Kangaroo grass is a great example as pre-emergent, early post-emergent and mature crop  has a well developed tolerance to selective herbicides. The Weeping grass is also another great option for the same reasons. Aim to undertake the revegetation in a number of phases rather than in one attempt and things like sowing in rows allows for weed control between the rows and easier identification. The rows will be lost after a couple of years with self seeding and the pastures thickening up over time. Another method would be to sow one of our mixes now so that you have a number of species come up and it would leave less and less room for the weed to come back if you continued to over sow during the weeds off seasons but this does limit you in future uses of selective herbicides, and would require more hands on weeding.